DIY A/C Recharge kit for 2002 Sonata GLS

Aftermarket freon refill kits should BE BANNED. They are dangerous in

Gotten a lot of good information from here and it seems like the
re-charge kits are more trouble than they're worth. But now that I
have had my 02 Sonata for nearly 5 years and the A/C is finally
starting to go, if a shop does it properly, should I not expect it to
last me another 4+ years?

- Thee Chicago Wolf

 

'But now that I have had my 02 Sonata for nearly 5 years and the A/C is
finally starting to go, if a shop does it properly, should I not expect
it to last me another 4+ years?
- Thee Chicago Wolf'

REPLY: It could, and, it may not before needing more attention ; if
you need a recharge every couple of years then that isnt so bad and you
can certainly budget for it. I have a 1998 Chevy Cargo Van with a 305
cid motor and the a/c system has worked flawlessly with 120,000 miles on
it. I pressure wash the condensor several times per summer as it sees
alot of construction sites , which helps keep the internal pressures
resonable and in the normal range for the ambient temp it is. On
automotive a/c systems...the biggest culprit are leaking O-rings
followed by a leaking Compressor Shaft Seal (as evidenced by a straight
line of oily deposits found on the underside of your hood) .

 

REPLY: It could, and, it may not before needing more attention ; if

This is all new info to me. Since I've been pretty ok for 4 years, I
figured my system is pretty healthy (no bad -O-rings, cracks, etc.).
Since I've decided I am going to take it to either Pep Boys or Jiffy
Lube, I wanna make sure they aren't gonna try and shaft me by saying
my o-rings are bad or I have leaks. How could I check this stuff to
make sure I am not being fleeced?

- Thee Chicago Wolf

 

[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]

If it isn't broke, don't fix it! You would know if you have a leak, the
system would not work or not work very well.

Operating at low charge is fairly easy to detect. You can hear the AC
clutch cut in and out very frequently. As it cuts in, the system quickly
cuts out via a low pressure switch.

This test requires a reasonable load on the AC. The clutch may cycle
quickly if it is cool out even in a properly charged system.

gerry

 

[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]

Nobody can answer that in advance. If it had a very slow leak which is
undetectable, a recharge may be cost effective without repairing the
leak that can't be found. This actually is common! Sniffers can't find
all leaks, neither can dye. Very slow leaks in concealed areas's are a
nightmare to find. They usually get worse, not always.

A few cautions:

- Be very wary of system "leak stop" additives. Many are harsh and many
shops won't touch a system with those added since it might contaminate
their equipment. There are a additives that are pretty gentle, often
they don't help, sometimes they do.

- Never let a system stand with no charge. It has a leak that most
likely will let moisture in. Moisture and r-134a oils create acids that
will destroy internal components.

gerry

 

'I wanna make sure they aren't gonna try and shaft me by saying my
o-rings are bad or I have leaks. How could I check this stuff to make
sure I am not being fleeced?
- Thee Chicago Wolf'

REPLY: Take a small container of liquid dish soap and mix it with water
(50/50 solution) , or, buy some spray Fantastic cleaner ... and coat all
connections on the a/c system that are accessible. The a/c doesnt need
to be in operation. Look for tiny bubbles to appear ; look all around
the fitting even underneath. If you see constant bubbles , then there
is a tiny leak. Look on the underside of your hood -- do you see a thin
line of oilyness about 4-10 inches long directly above the a/c
compressor ? If so, you had/have a freon leak from the shaft seal of
the compressor.

Thats about as far as you can go without using electronic instruments
for freon leak testing.