2006 Sonata AC

[Matt Whiting]

I'm having no problems with heat & cool issues nor any of the other
*features* that folks have posted. Don't know if the HVAC system or ducting
is different on the LX versus other models. I have tried to duplicate the
tank slosh noise at varying fill levels, Headlights work fine, etc. The car
that I was in for the initial test drive at the dealer did exhibit the dash
squeak and also had the problem with the rear of the headliner coming loose
and dropping down ~2 inches.

Did they find the dash squeak? Mine is still elusive. I didn't have
any problem with the headliner coming loose, but they did the "recall"
to it within a week of me buying the car so they likely pre-empted the
failure with the extra adhesive they added.

Perhaps your specific car has build issues that should be taken care of
under warranty, or maybe mine was just built on a *good* day..... if so, I
consider myself lucky....who knows? . FWIW, our high temps have been
running above the mid 80's with pretty high humidity (North Georgia).
Usually we turn the air on full arctic blast for about the first couple of
miles and by then things get a little chilly so we set it on whatever temp
feels comfortable and forget it. We've never had an issue maintaining the
proper temp (heat or cooling) yet. BTW, mine is Black exterior with Light
Gray Leather interior and no window tint.

The tank sloshing is a design issue not a build issue.

2006 Sonata LX V6 Auto. Purchased in Oct '05 and currently shows just over
11K on the odo. The last month fuel averages at fillup have been: 21.9,
22.4, 21.9, 22.2 with 98+% of the use being around town and almost no
freeway use.

I think the LX has the windows with a higher level of tint. I'd have to
go find my brochure, but I believe that the two higher end models came
standard with a higher level of window tint. And that may be the
difference between my GL and the others who have posted here.

I just came back from some extended errand running and took along a
thermometer and did some primitive testing. It is 92F here today with
humidity levels probably in the 70-85% range judging from how hazy the
mountains were in the distance. Here are the results:

1. After 20 minutes of driving on the highway at 55-60 mph, with the AC
temp on the coldest setting, fan on 1 and outside air selected, the
temperature at the right center dash outlet was 42F. I don't have a
thermometer that I can stick into the outlet, so we held one up against
the face of the outlet (the plastic housing around the thermometer was
too big to fit into the outlet).

2. After a stop, we drove another 15 miles at the same speeds and the
same settings other than the fan speed set on 3. The temp only got down
to 52F in this configuration.

3. On the way home, I drove non-stop for more than 30 minutes with the
settings above other than using fan speed 2. I placed the thermometer
on the center console beverage holder door. When I got home, the temp
was still 80F at console level. I don't know what it was at head level,
but likely a couple of degrees warmer. Only being able to drop the
temperature 12 degrees below ambient after 30 minutes of driving just
doesn't impress me.

It appears that the AC is functioning per specification judging from the
outlet temps, but it just can't remove heat fast enough on a hot and
sunny day. I'm now wondering if the combination of the low-end window
treatment and the blue exterior color is the reason. Any others out
there with a GL model that are willing to share their AC experience?


Matt

 

[Matt Whiting]

I think the LX has the windows with a higher level of tint. I'd have to
go find my brochure, but I believe that the two higher end models came
standard with a higher level of window tint. And that may be the
difference between my GL and the others who have posted here.

I just downloaded the ebrochure and it says that the GL and GLS have
"tinted glass", but the GLS V-6 and the LX also have "solar control",
whatever that is. It may well be that this is essential to having good
AC performance and my GL doesn't have that window treatment. I'm pretty
sure my Chevy truck doesn't either, but my minivan has pretty heavily
tinted windows.


Matt

 

[KW]

Did they find the dash squeak?

Sorry, don't know, we didn't buy the gray one I test drove.....for she who
decided it was to be *her* car after all opted for black instead.

Mine is still elusive. I didn't have
any problem with the headliner coming loose, but they did the "recall"
to it within a week of me buying the car so they likely pre-empted the
failure with the extra adhesive they added.

They told me that the headliner issue was specific to cars from the new
plant in Alabama and also that my build date was after the problem had been
corrected.

The tank sloshing is a design issue not a build issue.

Either way, I still can't replicate the noise.....and believe me, I've
tried, with a variety of other folks in the car thinking it may just be
outside of my range of hearing.

I think the LX has the windows with a higher level of tint. I'd have to
go find my brochure, but I believe that the two higher end models came
standard with a higher level of window tint. And that may be the
difference between my GL and the others who have posted here.

Could be, although compared to my Chevy truck, the Sonata windows look darn
close to clear. I can see just the barest hint of tinting when the doors are
open, and that may be some of the difference.....but again, this is a Black
car and it get's hot enough inside that the seats will quickly get the
attention of any exposed skin areas, as just happend to me on quick trip to
town just now. It cools down very quickly once your up and running. I took a
little drive a few minutes ago and at startup, the system showed an outside
temp of 96F.I didn't have a thermometer with me, but as I said, hot enough
inside to burn the crap out of my legs and was wishing for seat coolers
I set the unit on Auto with a desired temp of 67F and it took 3 minutes and
21 seconds before the fan speed dropped from high to low, which, and I'm
just guessing here, means that the sensor reads that the desired temp has
been met and the system has switched into maintain mode. (At 55MPH, the
outside temp registered at 93F at the point the fan speed was dropped.

I just came back from some extended errand running and took along a
thermometer and did some primitive testing. It is 92F here today with
humidity levels probably in the 70-85% range judging from how hazy the
mountains were in the distance. Here are the results:

1. After 20 minutes of driving on the highway at 55-60 mph, with the AC
temp on the coldest setting, fan on 1 and outside air selected, the
temperature at the right center dash outlet was 42F. I don't have a
thermometer that I can stick into the outlet, so we held one up against
the face of the outlet (the plastic housing around the thermometer was
too big to fit into the outlet).

2. After a stop, we drove another 15 miles at the same speeds and the
same settings other than the fan speed set on 3. The temp only got down
to 52F in this configuration.

3. On the way home, I drove non-stop for more than 30 minutes with the
settings above other than using fan speed 2. I placed the thermometer
on the center console beverage holder door. When I got home, the temp
was still 80F at console level. I don't know what it was at head level,
but likely a couple of degrees warmer. Only being able to drop the
temperature 12 degrees below ambient after 30 minutes of driving just
doesn't impress me.

It appears that the AC is functioning per specification judging from the
outlet temps, but it just can't remove heat fast enough on a hot and
sunny day. I'm now wondering if the combination of the low-end window
treatment and the blue exterior color is the reason. Any others out
there with a GL model that are willing to share their AC experience?


Matt

It still sounds to me that there's something not quite right with yours.
Have you had the dealer check to see if maybe there is some kind of blockage
in the ductwork restricting flow. I bought a new Mustang in 1981 and found a
piece of plastic crammed up inside the main diverter box that severely
restricted the flow......but it also made one heck of a noise as well so was
easy to diagnose.

KW

 

[Matt Whiting]

Could be, although compared to my Chevy truck, the Sonata windows look darn
close to clear. I can see just the barest hint of tinting when the doors are
open, and that may be some of the difference.....but again, this is a Black

There are ways to block a fair bit of the IR without having a dark tint
as in the old days.

It still sounds to me that there's something not quite right with yours.
Have you had the dealer check to see if maybe there is some kind of blockage
in the ductwork restricting flow. I bought a new Mustang in 1981 and found a
piece of plastic crammed up inside the main diverter box that severely
restricted the flow......but it also made one heck of a noise as well so was
easy to diagnose.

No, I haven't taken it in yet as it just got hot 3 days ago for me to
really see what the AC could do. I'll have to stop by and have them
take a look.

Matt

 

[Eric G.]

No, I haven't taken it in yet as it just got hot 3 days ago for me to
really see what the AC could do. I'll have to stop by and have them
take a look.

Matt

Matt, do you have a set of gauges? If so, I could throw my set on and
measure the high and low pressure sides. It is entirely possible that you
have TOO MUCH freon in the system. That would cause the compressor to
short-cycle (cut out on high pressure) and give you warmer than "normal"
discharge temps.

If you have too LITTLE freon in the system, you would likely get colder
than normal discharge air for a while, the the coil would freeze up and you
would get only warm air.

I have the solar blocking glass in my GLS V6, which as you said might
account for some of the difference.

Eric

 

[Bob Adkins]

I use the max setting for the first few minutes after getting into a hot
car, but I like getting fresh air so I don't use it for extended
periods. I'm more concerned with how the AC performs in "normal" mode.

I have tried that "fresh air" setting over the years, but all I get is the
smell of exhaust and dead dogs and such. I think they should re-name that
setting to "outside air".

 

[Matt Whiting]

Matt, do you have a set of gauges? If so, I could throw my set on and
measure the high and low pressure sides. It is entirely possible that you
have TOO MUCH freon in the system. That would cause the compressor to
short-cycle (cut out on high pressure) and give you warmer than "normal"
discharge temps.

No, I have no AC equipment. I'll let the dealer have a look since it is
under warranty.

Matt

 

[Matt Whiting]

I have tried that "fresh air" setting over the years, but all I get is the
smell of exhaust and dead dogs and such. I think they should re-name that
setting to "outside air".

That is one good thing about living where I live; the air is still
fairly decent. We do occasionally get what we call "that fresh country
air" when the local farmers spread manure. It usually doesn't last all
that long, however.


Matt