Timing belt replacement, 2000 Sonata V6

  • Thread starter Thread starter fpocai
  • Start date Start date
F

fpocai

Hi Group,

I'm coming due for my timing belt replacement soon on my 2000 Sonata
GLS. Since I'll probably have another car to drive in the meantime,
I'm thinking I'll try to do it myself. Is there a guide anywhere on
how to remove and replace it?
Any tips or tricks on getting to it? Looks like it'd be easiest to
get access by taking off the right front wheel and splash panel and
getting at it that way.

HMS has some good info, but a guide with pictures and not just
difficult-to-interpret sketches would probably be best.

I haven't done much work inside of engines before but I do have a
timing light and all the necessary tools.

A couple other questions, while on the topic, first...is it worth it
to do the water pump at the same time on the GLS? Also, is there
really a difference in quality between different brands of belts? I
see one kit @ Advance Auto for $183.95...and for a belt and a couple
of tensioners I can't help but think how much of that is really
margin. I mean...it's just a piece of rubber and a couple of molded
metal circles. I saw another kit on ebay for $85, which, while still
expensive for what it is, is not nearly as much of a hit. Is there a
considerable difference in reliability & life expectancy?


Thanks

Fred
 
A couple other questions, while on the topic, first...is it worth it
to do the water pump at the same time on the GLS? Also, is there
really a difference in quality between different brands of belts? I
see one kit @ Advance Auto for $183.95...and for a belt and a couple
of tensioners I can't help but think how much of that is really
margin. I mean...it's just a piece of rubber and a couple of molded
metal circles. I saw another kit on ebay for $85, which, while still
expensive for what it is, is not nearly as much of a hit. Is there a
considerable difference in reliability & life expectancy?
Click to expand...

Well of course there is Fred. If you've done any amount of work on a car ever - and I'm guessing you've done some, then you certainly understand that quality is all over the map. There can be some good deals to be had from ebay, and there is some junk to be had too. I wouldn't put anything but a Gates belt in my car. Don't know what brand the belt is you saw on ebay. Belts typically run around $40-$80 on the aftermarket, depending on where you live and if you get any discount off of list. I sure as hell would not go for any bargain belt. Likewise for the tensioners. While it's open, it would be smart to throw a water pump in it.
 
A couple other questions, while on the topic, first...is it worth it
to do the water pump at the same time on the GLS?
Click to expand...

Your choice, but if you have to do the water pump next month or next year,
you have to do the exact same labor to get to the pump. I'd replace it now.


Also, is there
really a difference in quality between different brands of belts? I
see one kit @ Advance Auto for $183.95...and for a belt and a couple
of tensioners I can't help but think how much of that is really
margin. I mean...it's just a piece of rubber and a couple of molded
metal circles.
Click to expand...

Just a piece of rubber? Do the math. The engine has probably gone around
150 million revolutions so that is how many rotations of the belt? Why not
just get a comparable sized belt from the lawnmower service outfit and use
that so you can save even more money. After all, it is just a piece of
molded rubber. Maybe the elastic from your underwear will work.
 
Well of course there is Fred. If you've done any amount of work on a car ever - and I'm guessing you've done some, then you certainly understand that quality is all over the map. There can be some good deals to be had from ebay, and there is some junk to be had too. I wouldn't put anything but a Gates belt in my car. Don't know what brand the belt is you saw on ebay. Belts typically run around $40-$80 on the aftermarket, depending on where you live and if you get any discount off of list. I sure as hell would not go for any bargain belt. Likewise for the tensioners. While it's open, it would be smart to throw a water pump in it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike,

The kit I'm looking at on eBay is made by PCI (Preferred Components,
Inc)...I don't have any experience with them myself but perhaps
someone else does. The one @ Advance is a goodyear kit which, after
some more studying, is probably a superior kit. I'll have to call the
dealer later today and get a price on an OEM kit, though to be honest
I've never really been happy with them in the past...not since they
told me I needed new wires only to get the same problem back after
dropping $130 and finding out the problem was in the coilpack.

Considering that it only needs to be done every ~60,000 miles, and
it's an interference engine, probably a bit better off paying for a
better kit. I'll also have to look and see if I can find out what
else should be done at ~130k.

Would still like to find a more graphical guide than the HMAService
one. That's mainly what I'm looking for
 
Your choice, but if you have to do the water pump next month or next year,
you have to do the exact same labor to get to the pump. I'd replace it now.

Also, is there


Just a piece of rubber? Do the math. The engine has probably gone around
150 million revolutions so that is how many rotations of the belt? Why not
just get a comparable sized belt from the lawnmower service outfit and use
that so you can save even more money. After all, it is just a piece of
molded rubber. Maybe the elastic from your underwear will work.
Click to expand...

You're right Ed, after thinking about it some more it probably isn't
worth it to skimp on the belt...it's just that it seems like a lot of
money for a belt, when considering that it probably only costs about
$15 tops to manufacture the whole kit. I understand quality is
important and I will be going for a more recognized name, but thinking
about how much of that is margin is just sickening. I guess that's
the case with most long-term maintenance parts though.
 
Hi Group,

I'm coming due for my timing belt replacement soon on my 2000 Sonata
GLS. Since I'll probably have another car to drive in the meantime,
I'm thinking I'll try to do it myself. Is there a guide anywhere on
how to remove and replace it?
Any tips or tricks on getting to it? Looks like it'd be easiest to
get access by taking off the right front wheel and splash panel and
getting at it that way.

HMS has some good info, but a guide with pictures and not just
difficult-to-interpret sketches would probably be best.

I haven't done much work inside of engines before but I do have a
timing light and all the necessary tools.

A couple other questions, while on the topic, first...is it worth it
to do the water pump at the same time on the GLS? Also, is there
really a difference in quality between different brands of belts? I
see one kit @ Advance Auto for $183.95...and for a belt and a couple
of tensioners I can't help but think how much of that is really
margin.
I mean...it's just a piece of rubber and a couple of molded
metal circles.
Click to expand...
If that's your idea of a timing belt, I'll recommend that you stay at
least 2 feet away from your engine.
Let the pro's dealt with it, you'll blow-up your engine.
 
You're right Ed, after thinking about it some more it probably isn't
worth it to skimp on the belt...it's just that it seems like a lot of
money for a belt, when considering that it probably only costs about
$15 tops to manufacture the whole kit. I understand quality is
important and I will be going for a more recognized name, but thinking
about how much of that is margin is just sickening. I guess that's
the case with most long-term maintenance parts though.
Click to expand...

You have to let go of that margin hangup. That's the way of the world.
Think of it this way - how much markup is there in what you do for a living?
 
Would still like to find a more graphical guide than the HMAService
one. That's mainly what I'm looking for
Click to expand...

I'm not aware of one, but then again, I've never really looked for one.
It's a pretty straight forward job though, and more detail isn't really all
that necessary. Remove everything you have to in order to get to the front
of the engine, remove the front of the engine, replace the belt, the
tensioner, the water pump, and put it all back together. Remember that
completing the job and discovering 20% extra fasteners left over is
considered proper.
 
You're right Ed, after thinking about it some more it probably isn't
worth it to skimp on the belt...it's just that it seems like a lot of
money for a belt, when considering that it probably only costs about
$15 tops to manufacture the whole kit. I understand quality is
important and I will be going for a more recognized name, but thinking
about how much of that is margin is just sickening. I guess that's
the case with most long-term maintenance parts though.
Click to expand...

Most items retail for at least 4X the cost of manufacture. Then you have to
look at people paying $2 for a bottle of water.
 
I'd consider using a belt made by any of GoodYear, Gates, or Dayco, or
factory belt. Never heard of whatever company you saw on e-bay. Wouldn'
touch that with a ten foot pole. Not for something as important as
timing belt on an interference engine
 
hyundaitech said:
I'd consider using a belt made by any of GoodYear, Gates, or Dayco, or a
factory belt. Never heard of whatever company you saw on e-bay. Wouldn't
touch that with a ten foot pole. Not for something as important as a
timing belt on an interference engine.
Click to expand...

Oops. I'm new to the group, and only read it because I rather like
Hyundais, based on renting one a few years ago. I didn't realize that
Hyundais are interference engines....are they ALL interference in all
models? If so, my ardor for Hyundais is rapidly fading......
 
mack said:
Oops. I'm new to the group, and only read it because I rather like
Hyundais, based on renting one a few years ago. I didn't realize that
Hyundais are interference engines....are they ALL interference in all
models? If so, my ardor for Hyundais is rapidly fading......
Click to expand...

I think the new Sonata's have a timing chain, but the rule of thumb for a
Hyundai is timing belt and interference engine. And I agree with
you...unless there is a really good excuse for an interference engine I
don't see any reason to buy one. As far as I can tell, the Hyundai
interference engines are not vastly superior to other non- interference
engines that are available. So, one has to wonder why Hyundai has so many
interference designs. It is clearly not what the people want, although most
probably don't realize they don't want it when they buy the car, only later
when it breaks or when the bill comes for the recommended maintenance.
Comments?
 
mack said:
Oops. I'm new to the group, and only read it because I rather like
Hyundais, based on renting one a few years ago. I didn't realize that
Hyundais are interference engines....are they ALL interference in all
models? If so, my ardor for Hyundais is rapidly fading......
Click to expand...

The Sonata and 6 cylinder SantaFe are timing chain, not belt. I'm not sure
of some of the others. What model are you interested in?
 
Edwin Pawlowski said:
The Sonata and 6 cylinder SantaFe are timing chain, not belt. I'm not
sure of some of the others. What model are you interested in?
Click to expand...
I like the Elantra and the Sonata.... thanks for the info re: timing
chains.
 
2006 and newer Sonatas have chain. Older Sonatas and all Elantras use bel
drive. As I recall, the maintenance interval on the timing belt wa
increased to something like 7 years/105k beginning with the 2007 Elantra
 
Dan K said:
I think the new Sonata's have a timing chain, but the rule of thumb for a
Hyundai is timing belt and interference engine. And I agree with
you...unless there is a really good excuse for an interference engine I
don't see any reason to buy one. As far as I can tell, the Hyundai
interference engines are not vastly superior to other non- interference
engines that are available. So, one has to wonder why Hyundai has so many
interference designs. It is clearly not what the people want, although
most probably don't realize they don't want it when they buy the car, only
later when it breaks or when the bill comes for the recommended
maintenance. Comments?
Click to expand...

I think it is more of a PITA issue than a cost issue. I'd never buy a car
with a belt because it is just one more thing that has to be done. Based on
the 60k miles, it works out to about .0065 per mile added cost. Every
situation is different. If I bought a new car every three or four years or
drove only 6000 miles a year, it would not be a big deal. I drive a car for
5 years and put 150,000 miles and them make it my secondary car for another
5 or more years.

As for why the build such engines, I'd have to guess cost. I have to wonder
what the up front cost is for a chain driven as opposed to the belt that
will add $800 in the life of the car. Mechanical parts do wear out, but to
knowing use a cheaper part up front for much more cost later is not a good
idea. Hyundai though, has been the low price leader and a few bucks here
and there can make or lose the sale.
 


Write your reply...

Latest posts

Back
Top