sludge

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Ed & Jane Grant, Jul 4, 2006.

  1. It appears that his religious fervor extends to the Bilstein machine.
    Remember, in his world science and facts don't matter, all that counts
    is faith and belief. ;-)
     
    Brian Nystrom, Jul 8, 2006
    #61
  2. Let's see, so far we've discovered that he believes in the Bilstein
    machine and K&N filters. Wanna bet whether he has one of those
    "Turbonators" in his intake and Slick 50 or Duralube in his crankcase?
    Perhaps he believes in E3 spark plugs, too?

    Yeah, there's one born every minute.
     
    Brian Nystrom, Jul 8, 2006
    #62
  3. Ed & Jane Grant

    Mike Marlow Guest

    I've seen some comment here about K&N, and in fact I've watched these
    comments since they began here, but I've never seen anything that documents
    K&N problems. I don't use K&N, but they are one of the better reputed
    aftermarket items outside of this forum. I'm curious how K&N has achieved
    such a notable reputation as to now be deemed to ruin engines.

    I'm aware of one (reported) case where K&N caused a problem with a MAF
    sensor, but to my understanding (admittedly not well researched), this is
    either not the norm or it has been resolved by the manner in which the
    filters are oiled. There are a ton of these filters out there and if MAF
    sensor problems were such a real threat, one would expect to see a lot of
    press about it - but one does not.

    I've never seen any documentation of engines being ruined by K&N filters
    either. Is this an urban legend that has developed in this group or does
    someone actually have some empirical evidence of K&N problems?
     
    Mike Marlow, Jul 8, 2006
    #63
  4. Ed & Jane Grant

    Matt Whiting Guest

    As both a Christian and an engineer, I think there is a place for both.

    Matt
     
    Matt Whiting, Jul 8, 2006
    #64
  5. Ed & Jane Grant

    Matt Whiting Guest

    You haven't looked very hard. This was from the very first page of a
    Google search using "K&N filter efficiency test" as search words.

    http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm



    Notice that the K&N supplied data provides no comparitive data. This is
    typical of a product that doesn't compare well to its peers. They show
    absolute numerical values and argue that they are good enough. Kind of
    like buying a cheap Chinese TV vs. a Sony. Sure, you will still see a
    picture, but never put a Sony beside it or you'll kick yourself.

    http://www.knfilters.com/images/factstab2.gif


    I'm not at all saying that using a K&N is instant death for an engine.
    If you never drive on dirt roads or dusty areas, you may never see a
    difference. Then again, the difference in airflow is so small that you
    won't see a difference in performance that is measurable either. And
    the trade is that you now have to at least annually pull the filter,
    wash out the old oil and re-oil it. My paper filters last 50-100,000
    miles (only replaced the filter twice on my minivan that went 178,000
    miles) and I have a dirt driveway nearly 3/8 mile long and drive on dirt
    roads fairly often. Modern paper filters with modern vehicles that have
    the air intake being the grill, rather than in the engine compartment,
    simply last a long time.

    If you are racing where you are running at full throttle much of the
    time, then the difference in airflow may matter and if you suck in more
    dust and shorten your engine life, you don't care. You will likely wear
    the engine out from abuse before you see the affect of the less
    efficient filter. However, if you are like me and plan to keep a
    vehicle at least 200,000 miles and longer if possible, then I think this
    is more of a concern. It's your money, but for me I see no reason to
    pay premium dollars for a filter that requires maintenance, is messy,
    passes more dirt and provides a performance advantage that isn't
    measurable in the type of driving I do (I rarely run full throttle or
    even close).


    Matt
     
    Matt Whiting, Jul 8, 2006
    #65
  6. Ed & Jane Grant

    Bob Adkins Guest

    Dave, I gotta tell you there's almost nothing I dislike more than Christian
    proselytizing. One thing I dislike more would be Atheistic proselytizing.

    Let's talk Hyundai's friend! :)
     
    Bob Adkins, Jul 8, 2006
    #66
  7. Ed & Jane Grant

    Bob Adkins Guest


    All one has to do is tear down an older engine that has been well-maintained
    and have a look. It's amazing how clean everything is... including the oil
    pan. Only in cases of abuse or overheating will you normally find anything
    that flushing would help.
     
    Bob Adkins, Jul 8, 2006
    #67
  8. Ed & Jane Grant

    Bob Adkins Guest

    OK Dave, I have had first-hand experience. I have torn down many, many
    engines.

    It's amazing how clean an old but well-maintained engine is. Only in cases
    of abuse or overheating will you normally find anything that flushing would
    help. Based on my experience, I don't think flushing has any value in a
    normal maintenance regime.
     
    Bob Adkins, Jul 8, 2006
    #68
  9. Brian Nystrom wrote:

    Let's see, so far we've discovered that he believes in the Bilstein
    And perhaps uses a water injection (Adds 80 HP INSTANTLY!) add-on?

    Water injection systems are predominantly useful in forced induction
    (turbocharged or supercharged), internal combustion engines. Only in
    extreme cases such as very high compression ratios, very low octane
    fuel or too much ignition advance can it benefit a normally aspirated
    engine.

    <<<Note that for water injection to provide useful power gains, the
    engine management and fuel systems must be able to monitor the knock
    and adjust both stoichiometry and ignition to obtain significant
    benefits. Aviation engines are designed to accommodate water injection,
    most automobile engines are not. Returns on investment are usually
    harder to achieve on engines that do not normal extend their
    performance envelope into those regions. >>>
     
    Godless Heathen, Jul 8, 2006
    #69
  10. Ed & Jane Grant

    hyundaitech Guest

    While I agree there's a chance of engine damage, that's very small. I
    don't see the point in doing the flush in the case where there is no
    actual oiling problem to begin with, but if you've already got a clogged
    or partially clogged passage, you're far more likely to do damage by
    driving than by flushing. And remember, this would be for people facing
    costly repairs in the first place. If it's inexpensive to clean by hand
    whatever's clogged, that's a far better alternativbe.
     
    hyundaitech, Jul 8, 2006
    #70
  11. Ed & Jane Grant

    Mike Marlow Guest

    I didn't do a google search at all Matt - I was asking people here if they
    had good reasons for their disklike of K&N.

    I do appreciate the link though.
     
    Mike Marlow, Jul 9, 2006
    #71
  12. Ed & Jane Grant

    JS Guest

    The K&N packaging explains, quite in simple english, that the unit
    passes 50% more dirt than the average paper/fiber filter. This has been
    well covered in alt.autos.dodge.trucks over the last few years.

    The story goes something like this: Paper filters consistantly clean
    98% of the average crap out of the average "outdoor" air, K&N's pass
    97%. This does equate to a 50% increase in dirt flow.
    The bigger issue is the fact that K&N filters don't filter well until
    they're actually dirty. The more dirt, the better it filters. Freshly
    cleaned its no better than an oily cotton sock.
    "Ruined"... Nope, I doubt anyone's actually had their engine "ingest" a
    K&N filter or some equivalent action that you could actually call
    "ruining". Premature failure due to increased wear due to unusually
    high foreign matter in the intake is more like it.

    K&N's do make sense in many situations. The biggest advantage of the
    K&N is it takes a lot more foreign matter to "clog". If you're
    operating tractors/trucks/dirtbikes/jeeps/4-wheelers/etc in conditions
    where paper filters start restricting airflow nearly instantly, the K&N
    filter is your best answer.

    JS
     
    JS, Jul 9, 2006
    #72
  13. That's true of any type of filter.
    Actually, your best answer is a large, high-flowing pre-filter to catch
    the bulk of the crud before it gets to the finer, standard filter.
    That's pretty much "filtration 101". It can be difficult to do in the
    confines of an engine bay, however.
     
    Brian Nystrom, Jul 10, 2006
    #73
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