96 Accent Window Glue

Discussion in 'Hyundai Accent' started by NotBloodyLikely, Jul 3, 2006.

  1. My 1996 Accent GL has a problem with the passenger window. It rolls
    down ok (manual handle roll), but it tilts slightly toward the front
    end of the vehicle when it is rolled back up. I can easily use my
    other hand to tilt it back level and finish rolling it up, but I'd
    rather have it work properly.

    By partially removing the door panel and peering down into the door
    cavity, I traced the problem to one of the two adhesive points at the
    bottom of the window. They're spaced about 4 inches apart, and while
    the front-side one remains intact, the rearward one appears to have
    become unglued.

    My question is, what kind of adhesive can I apply to that rear bracket
    that will hold in all conditions? Where I live, we have temperature
    ranges from -40 celcius to +35 celcius, and I've noticed the problem is
    worse in hot weather.

    Thoughts?
     
    NotBloodyLikely, Jul 3, 2006
    #1
  2. NotBloodyLikely

    hyundaitech Guest

    Hyundai has a TSB on this issue and recommends 3M channel bonding and
    sidelite adhesive (051135-08641). To assist, you may want the applicator
    and nozzle (051135-08191, 051135-08197). If you cannot locate this, you
    may wish to try some epoxy.
     
    hyundaitech, Jul 3, 2006
    #2
  3. NotBloodyLikely

    nothermark Guest

    I'd go with a urethane or RTV first. You have a fairly large
    differential expansion between glass and plastic or metal so you need
    something that gives a bit. Epoxy doesn't stretch much so something
    breaks.
     
    nothermark, Jul 4, 2006
    #3
  4. Good info on both counts. Thank you very much. Regarding the
    applicator and nozzle for the 3M product, it is a fairly narrow gap,
    but I am able to roll the window up fully and access the brackets with
    the door panel partially removed. So, hopefully, I will be able to
    feed the compound into the crevise without splattering adhesive all
    over the inside and outside of the door... that wouldn't be so good.

    Regarding the differences between epoxy and urethane and RTV, I noticed
    that the front bracket (the one that didn't fail) was still bonded to
    the glass with some black glue that was rubbery and slightly
    malleable... at least the little bit that was pressed out around the
    bracket. On the other hand, in the rearward bracket (the one that
    failed), the glue that remained in the bracket was brittle and flakey,
    and when I poked at it with a screwdriver, it crumbled instantly. That
    leads me to think that something which adheres well but can flex a bit
    might be preferred. It also makes me wonder if a priming agent will be
    needed since the bracket already has a bunch of the old flakey goop
    still in it, and it's a pretty tight area to attempt to scour it out.

    Noting that the TSB from Hyundai suggests using that 3M compound (and
    it really is a compound: it is a two part adhesive, according to
    www.acuraworld.com), makes me wonder if it wasn't mixed correctly at
    the factory, since one bracket held and the other failed in the same
    conditions.

    Thanks!
     
    NotBloodyLikely, Jul 4, 2006
    #4
  5. NotBloodyLikely

    nothermark Guest

    Definitely clean out the old glue. If you don't then the old glue
    will fail again. If it's a 2 part it sounds like a urethane.
     
    nothermark, Jul 6, 2006
    #5
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