2001 Elantra rotor replacement

Does anybody know if it's difficult to remove the front brake
rotors on an '01 Elantra GLS? (there's no ABS). A somewhat
knowledgeable friend of mine thinks it probably has captive rotors,
making it hard to change them. But during past pad changes, it sure
looked like by removing the philips head machine screws and flipping
the caliper up, the rotor would slide right off. Has anybody done
this in the past, who could verify either theory?

The reason for (possible) replacement is that I think I have a
sticking caliper. Last time I did my brakes, all but one pad had
about 50% of their life left, and one was worn down to the warning
tab. I slid the caliper back and forth a few times, but didn't do
much else before putting the new pads on. 1 month later I'm hearing
the wear indicator, which makes me think that the caliper is sticking,
keeping the one pad pressed against the rotor, which may be causing it
to heat unevenly and constantly. At this point I'm just looking
ahead, in case it is damaged at all.

I suppose I ought to see if lubing the guides works first though. (And
to save a multitude of followups, I know not to get any lubricant on
the rotor or brake pads themselves, just the guide pins.)

Thoughts?

Ben

 

That's your best bet. Although rotor damage is possible, it seems unlikely.

 

is it normal after initial brake rotor service to hear brake noise afterwards
(upon complete stops), and then the noise goes away after a day or so (?)

if not, then s...

 

Sure. The pads and rotors have to "bed" with each other.

 

It's almost as simple as you think. After you remove the screws, you may
need to use a BIG hammer to actually get the rotor off the hub. The
rotors have a tendency to rust on very badly. Of course, don't use this
method if you're going to resurface the rotor.

 

No problem, I'm used to rust. All of my past cars were reasonably old
when I bought them, so I'm used to rusty stuff. In fact, working on the
elantra has seemed really easy so far, if only because not every single
part is rusted on/corroded/brittle/stuck/creatively fixed by an idiot/not
available anywhere.

Easy or not when compared to other cars, at least I'm way less
pessimistic when I'm getting out my tools.

Thanks,
Ben

 

Oh, and I forgot. There are two M8x1.25 holes in the rotor designed to be
used to thread screws into to force the rotor off. Don't do it unless
replacing the rotor. Almost every time I tried this, I cracked or
actually broke the rotor.

 

does the same problem appear when removing the drums with the screws?

 

I don't recall having this problem with the drums on Hyundais. I've broken
a few bolts in Kia Sportage drums, however.

 

Replacing the rotors is a snap , It took me 10 minute each Got tired
of the braking shimming and I just replaced , since I have no faith in
resurfacing them .