2000 elantra front wheel bearing replacement

I undertook the job of replacing the front wheel bearing on my wife's
2000 Elantra. I have use of a press. I have the spindle assembly(hub
with rotor attached) off the car now, but I'm not sure of a few things.
1. How to remove the snap ring that retains the bearing. I tried
freeing it up with a chisel and trying needle nose, but it seems pretty
stuck. I also have a mid-sized pair of snap ring pliers, but they
won't expand that far.
2. How do I separate the rotor from the hub. I first thought that the
two holes on the face were for threading bolts in to separate the two.
Then I read that some hyundai's have two screws that hold the rotor to
the hub. I didn't look closely inside these holes, but maybe there is
a hex head screw inside. I also read something about using a slide
hammer. Anyway, I'm stuck here too.
3. What keeps the hub retained in the bearing. It seems like the
transaxle would hold it to itself, but I was thinking that the
transaxle isn't held in that strongly and that maybe the hub locks to
the bearing somehow(other than the press fit).
Any help anyone can give me with these questions, would be greatly
appreciated.

 

Sounds like you need to take it to a real mechanic.
Or take out some good insurance.

 

1. Soak the snap ring in penetrating oil really well. I have a pair of
Craftsman needlenose pliers that the tech beside me believes to be the
best he's seen for removing this snap ring. If you can get the snap ring
to move, your should be able to eventually collapse it with the needlenose
pliers and simultaneously pry out with a screwdriver or two. Being an
octopus helps.
If you're unable to get the snap ring to move, you may need to cut it. I
had to do this once by cutting a slit in the back side of the knuckle down
through the bearing. I'd recommend only doing this as a last resort.

2. The holes in the rotor are indeed intended for screwing a bolt into to
push the rotor off the hub, but DON'T DO IT. You'll crack the rotor. If
you take the knuckle off, and put the studs down on a hard surface, you
can hammer the rotor off. I use about a 3.5 lb. dead blow hammer. If
you've removed the retaining screws (or they aren't there), the rotor
should hammer off.

3. The hub is simply pressed into the bearing. Once you get the rotor
off, you can press the hub out. While on the car, the axle nut holds the
assembly together.

 

Thanks Hyundaitech. I wish I had posed the questions earlier. I ended
up removing the rust between the rotor and the hub by going around
multiple times with a chisel. the only access I had was in the open
area of the backing plate. I then tried to separate them by driving
splitting wedges on both sides between the rotor and the spindle,
alternating hitting one then the other. I think the bearing broke
apart first, then when it was just the hub/rotor I was able to better
pound it off. Then I had to grind a slot in the inner race of the
bearing that was still attached to the hub. When it was almost thru, I
hit inside the slot with a punch and cracked it loose. With the snap
ring, I did soak it, then took an old bearing that was slightly smaller
and hit down on the snap ring to try to push the bearing back a
smidgeon. Then I used a chisel again and this time one end of the snap
ring loosened up and I was able to pry it out. From there it was just
a matter of pressing the outer race out and putting the new bearing
back in and pressing the hub back in. I see it would be a lot easier
to separate the bearing while it's on the car with a slide hammer if
you could. I still need to do the other side, so I can put some of
this knowledge from you and what I've experienced to work. I don't
have a slide hammer, so I may end up doing it as you have suggested. I
found it was a little tricky supporting the spindle evenly so I could
press on it to push the hub out. I'm assuming that typically the hub
will press out of the bearing before the bearing breaks apart. I'm
sure my case had to do with intentionally trying to break the bearing
apart, and the uneven pounding.
Overall, I actually enjoyed it. It was a little frustrating at
times, but with advice from you and others, and not a little
persistence, I got one side done and was even able to re-use the rotor.
Thanks for your help.

 

Don't run out and purchase the slide hammer. I've a 10 pound slide hammer
that's only moderately efficient at removing these hubs.

 

it's not worth the pain in the ass work to save a few dollars,
brought my 2001 elantra into the dealer to have the front driverside wheel
bearing done.
180$ complete... (cdn dollars)
Dealer gave me a loaner car to go to work picked up my car on the way home.

Chris

 

hyundaitech can you provide some guidance?

I'm trying to replace the front and rear rotors and pads on a 2001
Santa Fe, After numerous attempts, with a hand impact driver, to loosen
the 2 screws holding the rotor on the screwheads finally sheared off.
My question : are the screws required? I have to order the screws
because dealer doesn't stock them. I would hate to have to drill and
tap the holes for nothing. Thank you in advance

 

Let me ask you this... I have TWO 2000 Elantras. It's funny watching a
problem crop up on one, and then the other (well, not that funny...)

On my wifes car, the right wheel started making a squeaking noise anytime
the wheel was turned past the 12 o'clock position (right). Now, mine is
doing it.

Is this what lead you to your bearing job?? It's definitely a
grinding/squeaking noise.

Thanks