03 Elantra front disk pads

I believe I saw somewhere that the caliper piston has to be screwed back
into the caliper on some cars instead of just pushing it back??? Haven't
changed disk pads in a few years, back then just pushed the piston back
into the caliper!! Do I need a special tool if this is the case?

 

You won't need a special tool for the front.

The calipers that need to have the piston screwed back in are the ones
that have the parking brake assembly as part of the caliper. If you have
rear disc, you'll find such calipers on the rear of your car. I've heard
of people screwing them in without a special tool, but trust me, you'll be
much happier with the tool. There are a couple different types. Your
local Sears or parts supplier should be able to show you at least one type
of tool for this.

 

case

Autozone loaned me the tools to screw the piston back i
to the caliper. You have to pay for it up front but they refund you
money when you return the tool. Can't beat free. I think othe
parts stores do this also. Have also borrowed BDC reader from them
also

 

Even if you buy the brake tool, it's only $8-$10.

 

I did the rear brake pads in my 05 Elantra (see my post) just the
other day. I did it quite easily with a pair of large pliers. The only
thing I would say is definitely put some grease around the rubber boot
before turning, because it tends to stick and could tear. Really no
big problem at all. The front pads have the old fashioned piston which
can easily be moved back with a c-clamp. Good luck.
PS: Having said that, the tool may be a good idea. I will probably buy
one myself now that I have three Elantras with rear brakes to do.

 

as upoi can see I was asking about front pads. Thanks..I have drums on the
rear. Thanks again guys!

 

for those of you who may/maynot care: I inspected both front hubs and found
shims rubbing on both sides...This is a design flaw...the shim has 2 holes
in it where it fits on two nubs. On both sides the upper hole was
elongated letting the shim rum on the hub...Disks/pads are in good shape,
I have new pads on the way, may not put the outside shim in, unless it is a
better design than the old one!!!

 

The shim should be securely attached to the new pads.

 

So, if it is the same disign, I should drill a hole in the shim and the
metal backing plate on the disk, tap it and put a screw in it so it won't
elongate again?

 

I wouldn't recommend that. The screw could interfere with something else.
I'd just let it be. In most cases, the shim doesn't move. Every once in a
while, I see one that has done what you describe.

 

"every once in a while" indicates a design flaw!
Thanks

 

Every once in a while = design flaw!

 

For anyone replacing the rear pads: If you have an Auto Zone store
near-by you can get the piston retraction tool for free as a loaner.
You have to pay for it when you take it, but get a full refund when
you return it. I used it and it works great, makes it much easier -
just be sure to loosen the rubber boot before trying to turn the
piston. I went around the inside of the boot with a plastic knitting
needle to free the boot from the piston, then put a little silicon
grease under the lip to make sure it would allow the piston to turn
without tearing the boot.